Wednesday, 12 September 2012

Lens End

Picnic bench at the swimming pond

 (Photo: Ed Millar)

Landscape. From the moment my eyes open in the morning to the moment they’re closed, I’m embedded in the Keels landscape. Well, I suppose even when I’m sleeping I’m technically still in Keels, though my mind might be whisked off to some other dreamscape. Behind each rocky cliff-face on the daily walk to class, I pass through layer upon layer of the geological and cultural landscape of Keels.

This afternoon we captured the Keels landscape with the aid of professional photographer Brian Ricks, who provided us with invaluable advice on composition and tweaking a camera to get that perfect shot. John Ducey’s house, work-shed, the community fish store, Selby’s shop, and vista shots of the harbor were our primary targets. John Ducey, one of the last  inshore fishermen in the community, accompanied us for much of our trip, providing us with information both about the fishery and Keels. 

Old ladder behind John Ducey's work-shed
(Photo: Ed Millar)

What was I searching for when I looked      through the lens? My photography experience was limited to pictures taken for personal use, with little deliberation or concern for composition. With Brian Ricks’s guidance however, I found myself able to take half-decent photos with some focus and clarity. I still have a long ways to go, but I think my photography skills are improving (thanks to Brian!). 

If anything was to be taken away from today, it was the complexity of photography and photographic documentation. Depending on your focus, you were guaranteed to be faced with an entirely new set of concerns and anxieties. Whatever lens you choose to view Keels from, be it your unaccompanied eyes or the filters of your digital camera, you're bound to stumble into a story waiting to be told. 

Beginning Folklore Boot Camp



Dale Jarvis discussing project planning at the old

Roman Catholic School in Keels (Photograph: Meghann Jack)


Now that we have a sense of the local cultural landscape, we have begun fieldwork 101. This morning, Dale Jarvis, the Intangible Cultural Heritage Officer with the Heritage Foundation of Newfoundland and Labrador, provided a crash course in folklore and oral history project planning. We discussed a combination of concepts, methodologies, and practical applications, but above all, Dale challenged us to think critically about why we are here and what we hope to achieve.



John Ducey's House in Keels, NL

(Photograph: Noah Morritt)


From the built architectural heritage and material culture of Keels to the intangible cultural heritage of its people - the oral traditions, beliefs, values, and social practices - it is both overwhelming and exciting to think of what we are here to do. This is more than fieldwork 101 - it is an important reflexive exercise and an opportunity to critically engage with the practice of ethnography. Yes, we have a number of important skills to learn, but we have to begin somewhere if we hope to develop as folklorists and fieldworkers. Learning how the people of Keels see and understand their cultural landscape we will be key to our success.



Tuesday, 11 September 2012

Keels Campus Closed for the Day

 

A windswept Alicia and Noah (Photo: Meghann Jack) 


We were greeted this morning by the tail end of tropical storm Leslie.  Although our houses shook in an alarming manner, clocks needed resetting, and class was cancelled, we were spared the worst of the wind. 

Things cleared up early in the afternoon and we were able to make our planned trip into Upper Amherst Cove.  We stopped at the lovely Bonavista Social Club, run by Katie (née Paterson) and Shane Hayes, located on the former premises of the Paterson Woodworking showroom.  After picking up bread baked in their wood oven and putting in orders for fresh produce, we headed to Bonavista to pick up a few staples.


  

Mike Paterson's house in Upper Amherst Cove

(Photo: Meghann Jack)


Back in Keels, with our fridges fully stocked, we had a festive evening celebrating our first Field School birthday.


As things wind down for the evening, we're thinking of our colleagues, friends, and family on the Avalon Peninsula and sending our best wishes their way.




Make a wish Alicia! (Photo: Meghann Jack)




 

Finding Parallels: Fishing and Farming

I'm a farm girl, born and bred. In some ways, Newfoundland could not seem more different from southern Saskatchewan. But almost as soon as I arrived on "the Rock" more than a week ago, I've been discovering parallels between the two provinces. The similarities are particularly striking out here in Keels, where I'm finding that fishing and farming, and the lifestyles that grow out of them, aren't so very different at all. 

After four months of living at my farm, being thrust back into city life, especially in a city that was brand new to me, was a huge adjustment. I couldn’t wait to get out of St. John’s and back into the “country”, though around here it’s more “out to the bay.” 

Sometimes differences stand out more than similarities, and there are plenty of differences between a fishing village like Keels and the towns and villages of rural Saskatchewan. For one, the town planning, or lack thereof in Keels' case. Keels grew up from the shore and the fishing stages were the vital centre of the community, its very reason for existence. From a prairie point of view, the layout is, to put it bluntly, haphazard. In the prairies, towns grew up around the railroad, but were usually planned based on a strict grid pattern. 

There are plenty of other differences, too. Some are too obvious to describe (the wet, ocean climate versus the dry prairie, for example), but others are more interesting. I will explore these in more detail in my next blog entry. 
Scenes from fishing and farming showed up unexpectedly today
on this Robin's Donuts box. (Photo: Kristin Catherwood)
There are also some obvious similarities. Though fishing and farming are quite different professions, both are based on extracting a resource from the natural environment, and thus are vulnerable to that same environment. As well, both were traditionally family operations that are facing great challenges in this age of modernisation. I believe the fishing and farming lifestyles also both lead to an intense emotional connection to the place where one was brought up in the age-old traditions of his ancestors. 

Some of the other similarities are more mundane, and more unexpected. The first night, I was struck by the sound of the wind, and how similar it is to the sound of the wind back home. There's plenty of long grass around Keels (in days past, it would have mostly been cut for hay for the various livestock around), and the wind, here uninhibited by trees, freely rustles through it, just like back home. The immense night sky, with all the constellations in full view, is another. Another is the hardy people themselves, who will bend over backwards to help you, but will also tell a joke at your expense if you deserve it. These people, who live in and amongst nature so that they hardly notice its grandeur, are true "salt of the earth" people, and it is comforting to be living amongst them, even if only for a short time. 

In future blogs, I will talk more about some of the similarities and differences between rural Newfoundland and rural Saskatchewan. In this entry, I will focus on one in particular: the school and its importance to rural communities. St. Mark's School in King's Cove, a few kilometres from Keels, is our internet site. We come here every night to check in with the "real world" and, most importantly, to update this blog. On our first night here, the principal John Adams, gave us a tour of the school. 

A miniature house being built at St. Mark's School as part of
 its Skilled Trades program for high school students.
(Photo: Kristin Catherwood)
It is now a K-12 school with just under 100 students, serving several smaller communities in the Bonavista area. Just as in Saskatchewan, every small community would have once had a school of its own, but one by one they closed down as people left the area. Now, St. Mark's too faces potential closure. It's a lovely school, and wandering its halls brought back many memories of my own experiences in small rural schools. These places are more than just educational centres; often they are hubs of not just the community in which they're situated, but of the entire region which they serve. They are a centre of identity for the students and the site of much of the social events in small towns. St. Mark's is a very impressive school with state-of-the-art technology. Distance learning makes it possible for students to explore any of their interests. 



John Adams, principal of St. Mark's School in King's Cove.
 (Photo: Kristin Catherwood)

Country schools are anything but subpar. Often students in rural schools receive more personal attention, and thus have more success in their academics than in city schools. On the wall of graduate photos, which are to be found in every school, is a photo of one former student who earned her Ph.d, a testament to the value of education she received in her formative years. 

In Saskatchewan, many rural schools face a struggle just to keep their doors open, as is the case here in Newfoundland. Bussing students further away to larger centres may seem like the most viable (economically) solution to dropping enrollment rates, but often, it sounds the death knell for small communities. I hope St. Mark's School can continue to educate the children of the Bonavista Bay area for many years to come.  
At St. Mark's School, students receive a well-rounded education, despite its rural location and small size. (Photo: Kristin Catherwood)





Monday, 10 September 2012

Batten Down the Hatches

We're expecting a fierce storm on the Bonavista penninsula tonight --- high winds and plenty of rain. We'll see you on the other side!

When Cod Was King



Dr. John Mannion presenting the cultural

landscape of Keels (Photo: Meghann Jack)



We explored the Keels landscape today with Dr. John Mannion, retired MUN geography professor and expert on all things Irish in Newfoundland. Dr. Mannion led us on a comprehensive historical-genealogical-architectural-geographical tour of this early Anglo-Irish fishing community, dating from the 1600s. He reminded us that the cultural landscape is dynamic, always changing and adapting, growing or receeding as time progresses. In the late nineteenth century, Keels had multiple fishing rooms and a peak population of over 400. Today, there are less than 100 residents and only two active in-shore fishing families. But traces of earlier ways of living and working are still visible on the landscape --- old foundations, stone walls, pathways, outbuildings and early house types. 


Whole cod (Left), Split cod (Right) 

Furlong Brothers Fish Plant

in Plate Cove (Photo: Claire McDougall)

Later we visited the Furlong Bros. fish plant in nearby Plate Cove, where Mike Furlong and Howard Quinton instructed fieldschool students in the art of filleting and splitting cod fish. We've nicknamed Howard "The Codfather", because that man sure knows his cod fish! The plant employs 100+ workers during peak season, processing cod, mackerel, capelin, fish cakes and other frozen goods. We now have about 30 lbs. of cod fish (all fileted by us with the patient assistance of Howard), fish cakes and pea soup to enjoy over the next few weeks. After learning to split cod fish with Howard and Mike, Junior Fitzgerald demonstrated how to salt cod. We'll keep you updated about this process as the fish cures. 

Mike Furlong and Howard Quinton (Photo: Jerry Pocius)




Claire filleting cod (Photo: Meghann Jack)


Edward (Photo: Meghann Jack)


Erin splitting cod (Photo: Meghann Jack)


Kristin (Photo: Meghann Jack)


Michele and Cyndi (Photo: Meghann Jack)


Noah and Howard Quinton (Photo: Meghann Jack)


Going Cold Turkey

The Field School students and faculty

enjoying dinner courtesy of the

Keels CWA. (Photo: Meghann Jack)

The Cold Plate Supper: Potato Salad, Beet Salad, Macaroni Salad, Cole Slaw, Dressing (Stuffing), Lettuce, Tomato, Ham Roll, and Turkey. (Photo: Meghann Jack)





We arrived in Keels on Sunday evening after a long and winding drive including stops in Summerville and King's Cove. The Keels Catholic Women's Association generously prepared a cold plate supper for us in the old Roman Catholic School, the base for our 3-week folklore field course. Our first (and most delicious) experience in Newfoundland foodways.